A Study on the Eco-Friendly Natural Dye Extracted from Flowers of

Landana camara L on Silk and Wool fabrics

 

P. Saravanan¹, G. Chandramohan², S. Saivaraj³

¹Department of Chemistry, Mohamed Sathak A.J College of Engineering, Rajiv Gandhi Road (OMR), IT Highway, Egattur, Chennai, Tamil Nadu

²Department of Chemistry, A.V.V.M Sri Pushpam College, Poondi, Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu

³Department of Chemistry, Thirumalai Engineering College Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu

*Corresponding Author E-mail: p.v.saravana@gmail.com

 

An increased interest for natural dyes, started several years ago, on the part of the consumers, is just beginning to be felt. The present investigation was carried out to revive the old art of dyeing with natural dye obtained from flowers of Landana Camara.L. It belongs to family verbenaceae, commonly known as unnichedi. The dye has good scope in the commercial dyeing of silk and wool in garments industry. In the present study, bleached silk and wool fabrics were dyed with chemical and natural mordants. Dyeing was carried out by pre-mordanting, post mordanting and simultaneous mordatning. The dyed samples have shown good washing, light and rubbing fastness properties. The various colour changes were measured by computer colour matching software. The heavy metals like antimony, arsenic, cadmium and lead present in the extract were determined by Inductive Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometer.

 

 

 

1. INTRODUCTION:

The natural dyes present in plants and animals are pigmentry molecules, which impart colour to the materials. These molecules containing aromatic ring structure coupled with a side chain are usually required for resonance and thus to impart colour. There is a correlation of chemical structure with colour, chromogen-chromophore with auxochrome [1]. In many of the world’s developing countries , natural dyes can offer not only rich and varied source of dye stuff, , but also the possibility of an income through sustainable harvest and sale of these plants [2].

The use of natural dyes for textile dyeing purposes, decreased to a large extent after the discovery of synthetic dyes in 1856. As a result, with a distinct lowering in synthetic dye stuff costs, the natural dyes were virtually unused at the beginning of twenties century [2].

 

Presently there is an excessive use of synthetic dyes, estimated at around 10,000,000 tons per annum, the production and application of which release vast amount of waste and unfixed colorants causing serious health hazards and disturbing the eco-balance of nature [3] Nowadays, fortunately, there is increasing awareness among people towards natural dyes. Natural dyes have better biodegradability and generally have higher compatibility with the environment. They are non-toxic, non-allergic to skin, non-carcinogenic, easily available and renewable [4].

 

Landana camara L amazing plant comes in many combinations of red, yellow, and orange flowers in small clusters. They grow as a bush and can reach up to 6 feet tall and wide. Deadheading spent flowers will encourage additional blooming and will prevent the growth of toxic berries. Lantanas are easy to care for and grow anywhere in well drained soils. Enjoy this attractive plant as butterflies enjoy the sweet nectar from the beautiful blooms. This plant pacifies vitiated vata, kapha, convulsions, malaria, epilepsy, tooth ache, wounds, ulcers, swelling, skin diseases, fistula, pustules and arthritis. 

 

2. MATERIALS AND METHODS

2.1 Materials:

2.1.1 Source:

The flowers of Landana camara L were collected from Punalvasal Village, Thanjavur District as shown in figure 1

 

Figure 1 : Landana camara L

 

2.1.2 Substrates:  

Silk and wool fabric was purchased from Kamala store, Thanjavur and it was used for dyeing.

 

2.1.3 Chemicals used:

AR grade metallic salts such as potassium dichromate, potassium permanganate, ferrous ammonium sulphate and copper sulphate, were used as chemical mordants. Tannic acid, myrobolan and cow dung were used as natural mordants.

 

2.2 Experimental Methods

2.2.1 Dye extraction

Flowers of plant were soaked in 70% ethyl alcohol and heated in a beaker kept over a water bath for 2 hours to facilitate quick extraction. Then it was filtered and the filtrate was collected in a separate beaker.

 

2.2.2 Dyeing procedure :

The silk and wool samples were dyed with dye extract keeping M : L ratio as 1:30. Dyeing was carried out at 80^o C and continued for 1 hour.

 

2.2.3 Mordating:

The silk and wool samples were treated with different metallic salts and natural mordants by following three methods;

 

(i) Pre-mordanting :

In this method, samples were pretreated with the solution of different chemical and natural mordants. The pretreated silk and wool fabric was introduced into the dye bath containing required amount of dye extract and water. After 5 minutes acidic acid was added. After 30 minutes sodium sulphate was added. The dyeing was carried out for 1h at 80 ^o C. The dyed samples were taken out, squeezed, washed with water and dried at room temperature [5].

 

(ii)  Post mordtanting :

In this method, silk and wool fabric was introduced into the dye bath containing required amount of dye extract and water. After 5 minutes acidic acid was added. After 30 minutes sodium sulphate was added. The dyeing was carried out for 1h at 80 ^o C. The dyed samples were taken out, squeezed and treated with solution of different chemical and natural mordants [5].

 

(iii) Simultaneous mordanting :

In this method, the silk and wool samples were dyed with dye extract as well as different chemical and natural mordants simultaneously [5].

 

2.2.4 Colour fastness

The dyed samples were tested according to IS standards. Colour fastness to washing, light and rubbing were determined from standard test methods IS-687-79, IS-2454-85 and IS-766-88 respectively.

 

2.2.5 Measurement of colour strength

The spectral reflectances of the dyed samples were measured using a Text flash spectrophotometer (Data colour corp.). The K/S values were calculated by Kubelka-Munk equation.

K / S = (1 – R)² / 2R

Where, R is the decimal fraction of the reflectance of the dyed samples at λ_max. K is the absorption coefficient and S is scattering coefficient [6].

 

2.2.6 Spectral analysis

The presence of heavy metals like antimony, arsenic, cadmium and lead in dyed fabric causes dermatological problems to the wearer and also eco-friendly dye should not contain these heavy     metals [7]. The presence / absence of these heavy metals were tested by Inductive Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometer (ICPMS).

 

3. RESULT AND DISCUSSION:

3.1 Preparation and optimization of aqueous extract of Landana camara L

The flowers of Landana camara L were found to discharge colour in ethyl alcohol very easily. Increasing the quantity of flowers 5 g to 20 g per 100 mL 70% ethyl alcohol boiled for 30 minutes is accompanied with the increase in colour strength and depth in colour [8]. It was observed that, colour of the dye extract was yellow colour.

 

3.2 Dyeing behavior of the dye extract

The dye extract was found to be suitable for dyeing of silk and wool. The silk and wool fabrics were dyed with chemical and natural mordants.  It was observed that, the dye uptake was found to be good in simultaneous mordanting method.

 

3.3 Optimization of mordants with K/S value and colour hue changes

Various hues of colour were obtained from simultaneous mordanted silk and wool with potassium dichromate, potassium permanganate, ferrous ammonium sulphate, copper sulphate, tannic acid, myrobolan and cow dung as shown in Table 1. The different mortants not only cause difference in hues of colour and significant changes in K/S values but also changes in L* values and brightness index value.

 

Table 1: Colour produced on silk and wool by different mordants in simultaneous mordanting

 

 

Table 2 and 3 shows L*, a* b* and K/S values of dyed silk and wool fabrics and it can be seen that, mordants which show higher value of L* show lighter shades while lower L* value show darker shades for silk and wool. Similarly, negative values of a* and b* represent green and blue respectively.

 

Table 2  : Different simultaneous mordants, L*, a*, b* and K/S values for silk fabric dyed with  Landana Camara.L

 

In silk, the highest colour value (K/S = 1.80) was obtained with potassium permangnate and lowest colour value (K/S =1.03) with copper sulphate. Natural mordant like myrobolan showed the higher colour value (K/S = 1.21) than the cow dung (K/S = 0.91) as shown in figure 2.

 

In wool, the highest colour value (K/S = 4.52) was obtained with potassium permangnate and lowest colour value          (K/S =2.71) with copper sulphate. Natural mordant like cow dung showed the higher colour value (K/S = 3.53) than the myrobolan (K/S = 2.45) as shown in figure 3. [6]

 

Table 3  : Different simultaneous mordants, L*, a*, b* and K/S values for wool fabric dyed with Landana camara L

 

Figure 2: Surface colour strength (K/S values) of dyed silk dyed with flowers of Landana Camara L

 

Figure 3 : Effect of mordtants on colour values of wool dyed with flowers of Landana camara L

 

3.5 Fastness properties      

The fastness properties of dyed silk and wool fabrics are shown in Table 4 and 5. It was observed that, dyeing with Landana camara L gave good washing, light and rubbing fastness properties. Overall, it could be used for commercial purposes and attain acceptable range.

Table 4 :  Fastness properties for silk fabric dyed with Landana camara L

 

Table 5 :  Fastness properties for wool fabric dyed with Landana camara L

 

3.6 Spectral analysis

Inductive Coupled Plasma Mass Spectrometer (ICPMS) studies have proved that, heavy metals such as antimony, arsenic, cadmium and lead were not present in the dye extract. Hence, dye obtained from flowers of Landana Camara.L will not cause any skin problems to the wearer and also not pollute the environment.

 

4. CONCLUSION:   

The present work shows that, flowers of Landana camara L can be used as dye for colouring textiles. These are grown throughout India and so are easily available. Different shades of colour can be obtained using different chemical and natural mordants. The washing, light and rubbing fastness of all dyeing with mordants were quite good. Heavy metals such as antimony, arsenic, cadmium and lead were not present in the dye extract. Hence, this dye will not cause any skin problems to the wearer and also will not pollute the environment. The dye has good scope in the commercial dyeing of silk and wool.      

 

5. REFERENCES:             

1.       A Purrohit, S. Mallick. A. Nayak, N.B. Das, B. Nanda and S. Sahoo, 2007, Current science, Vol. 92, No.12.

2.       D.Jothi,2008, AUTEX Research Journal, Vol.8,No.12.’

3.       H. Goodarzian and E. Ekrami, 2010, World Applied Sciences Journal, 9(4), 434-436.

4.       Kulkarni. S.S, Gokhale. A.V, Bodake. U.M and Pathade. G.R, 2011, Cotton dyeing with Natural Dye Extracted from Pomegranate Peel, Universal Journal of Environmental   Research and Technology, Vol. 1Issue 2: 135-139.

5.       M. Kumaresan, P.N. Palnisamy and P.E. Kumar, 2011, Application of Eco-friendly Natural  Dye Obtained from flower of Spathodea campanulata on Silk and wool, European Journal of Scientific Research,Vol.52, No.3, pp.306-312.

6.       S. Habibzadeh, H. Tayebi, E..Ekrami, A. Shams Nateri M. Allahnia and M.Bahmani, 2010, Silk and wool Dyeing Using Saw-Wood of the Zelkoa Forest Tree, World Applied Journal, 9(3), 295-299.

7.       Pabita Saha and Siddhatha Datta, 2010, Study on herbal dye extracted from bixa seed, Dyes and Chemicals, WWW.fibre2fashion.com.

8.       Rakhi Shanker and Padma S Vangar, 2006, dyeing cotton, wool, and silk and wool with Hibiscus mutabilies (Gulzuba), Dyes and Pigments, Elsevier, pp-1-6.

 

 

 

 

Received on 28.12.2011         Modified on 12.02.2012

Accepted on 16.03.2012         © AJRC All right reserved